On the Edge

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I have been chided for working on my vacation. That is fair. But I suppose that is one of the occupational hazards of being writer: every time you put pen to paper, it’s called work.

Today on Oahu’s North Shore, however, there will be a group of men “working” in a way I can only admire. These are real surfers, who find their holy grail on the North Shore, where today the waves are expected to be 50 feet in height.

Two days ago, we joined the curious and thrill seekers at Waimea Bay. The photo is from that day, when waves were at 20-25 feet. They thunder and shake the ground.
Today, Quicksilver will hold the
Eddie Aikau big surfing contest. “The Eddie” can only run when wave-face heights are at least 40 feet at Waimea. The last one was held in 2004 (and only 7 times in the last 25 years), and is open to only 28 surfers in the world. (No, I did not make that list.) These guys are crazy, or passionately addicted to adrenalin, or love life when they are on the edge. . .or all of the above. I don’t know what I would do, seeing 50-feet of water bearing down on me. But prayer comes to mind. Resiliency is an amazing trait. A wave that can overwhelm us, or defeat us, or crush us, or terrify us. . .Or, can be the transport / medium that carries us for the ride of our life.

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do less. live more.